Born and raised in the Aegean town of 陌zmir, Turkey, to a family of doctors, Bora Aksu trained at the and this year celebrated his 10th year participation in the with a dazzling opening show sponsored by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of the Republic of Turkey. While sitting and waiting for the show to commence, there was a noticeable level of enthusiasm and excitement amongst fashion-lovers. What is so fascinating is Aksu鈥檚 skill in putting together an incredible spectacle with his choice of music and fabrics, designs and emotions, cultural differences and a synthesis of Turkish culture and western tastes. Chiffon, silk tulles, hand woven textiles which he purchased from village women in 艦irince and Nazark枚y in Turkey adorns the light, tom-boyish outfits with splashes of hidden femininity and naivety.
The colour of Aksu鈥檚 designs is mischievous femininity while the evil eye bead is the concept of his spring/summer feast of wonderful designs and colour. As the Courtyard Show Space at darkens, world renowned Turkish percussionist Burhan 脰莽al鈥檚 Tekirda臒 Kar艧谋lamas谋/ Tekirda臒 Welcome emanates from the speakers, unexpected and equally reminiscent of Aksu鈥檚 homeland. The evil eye bead is a talisman that absorbs the 鈥渆vil gaze鈥 of another and protects it鈥檚 wearer from coming to any harm. In certain Turkish circles it is believed that the deep blue, white and black, sprinkled with lemon yellow, 鈥渆vil eye鈥 bead cracks when it stops any harm from befalling its wearer. Pencil skirts, cropped jackets, blouses with integrated crochet work, sling backs with fine white cotton socks, dresses at knee height or one fold over all bring the long hot summers of our childhoods back into our minds. However, perhaps one of the most breath-taking aspects of the show is the manipulation of colour into emotion and lifestyle. Aksu says that the woman represented in this show, 鈥渋s a woman who has been out and about in nature, who has caught a bit of sun; a joyous woman who has a cheerful life.鈥
Fuchsia, baby blues, sun yellow, shades of white, navy blue, almost transparent pockets, embroidered fabrics, crochet work鈥 Even Aksu鈥檚 cocktail dresses and ball gowns have pockets to provide self-assurance and comfort to their adorners. Then Postcards from Italy by Beirut kicks in and we are transported to some coastal town in the Aegean or Meditteranean coasts of Turkey. The sea, the sun, the colourful family relationships, memories of long-lost childhood and a deep sinking feeling of nostalgia reminds us of the personal background of Aksu. All his designs within this collection are actually reminiscent of 1950s Turkey, the arrival of a new sense of modernity and freedom for women along with their interest in Westernisation. Come to think of it, comparing today鈥檚 freedoms for women with that of 60 years ago, one can mostly say that women in Turkey seem to be somewhat more oppressed today. Yet, Aksu鈥檚 attitude is positive; with his immaculate sense of taste he turns the table around for women around the world. Fashion after all is a way of life, so much so that mainstream fashion never becomes your style and Aksu鈥檚 woman reflects this in all her details.
Hande Eagle
London Fashion Week, 13 until 17 September.
Credits: Courtesy Bora Aksu. Photography Christopher Dadey
