In a city where dining experiences 鈥減op-up鈥, sales flash, and oysters are a tasteless travel ticket, fashion has had to break from a light jog into a sprint. Ready for submersion into a harsh urban sphere, Bernard Chandran鈥檚 AW14 collection channels all of the strongest parts of menswear tailoring, with the cinching and finesse of women鈥檚 wear.
Designed to 鈥渢ransform the wearer in less than 30 seconds鈥, the collection focuses on slip-on, resilient day-to-night looks. Sleeveless metallic waistcoat dresses, funnel neck leather jackets and floor length panelled outerwear give effortless and empowering style in a flash. 鈥淚t鈥檚 all about the one look鈥, says Chandran. He designs for, and dresses strong women, typically levering his collections to accentuate the female form and the wearer鈥檚 status, this season being no exception.
Using detailing to cleverly reveal and mask parts of the body, onlookers are flashed skin through PVC strips, yet left unable to see the more delicate features which are hidden under mesh veils, high collars and scuba zips. Autumn / Winter鈥檚 rich jewel tones were prevalent throughout. Metallic fuchsia and opulent emerald gemstone shades were neatly tied with utilitarian staple white, black and grey tones. Perhaps referencing the power-dressing pallet of the 1980鈥檚, tan was also freshly twinned with cobalt blue.
Fabrics were used tactically; structured fabrics such as leather and perspex being used on the more lady-like shapes and conventional feminine textures such as brocade being cut for the slightly more androgynous pieces. Chandran鈥檚 modern women carried minimal, nude make-up with the exclusion of a bronze toned highlighter, which aligned with some of the sheen fabrics from the collection. Hairstyling was honestly parted, yet pulled back to mimic the seasons strict lines.
Bernard鈥檚 vision for style lets 鈥渢he garment speaks for itself鈥 whether his wearer is a housewife or a CEO, the collection creates the perfect guise that is now demanded of women鈥檚 wear.
Bernard Chandran, London Fashion Week, 15 February 2014.
Keziah Brown
Credits
1. Courtesy of Bernard Chandran.
